Home My Account/Login Help Shopping Cart  | |||
| My Custom Catalog (U.S. Patent 7,472,082) | Contact Us | Store Locations | Business Customers: Pro Login |
| Ordering Line: 1-800-645-9292 | |||
See Complete List of Links at Bottom of Page | |||
 | |
| The Biggest and Best Selection of Woodworking Tools, Cabinet Hardware, Router Bits, and More on the Web! | |
| |
 | |
|
|||||||||
How To Find Stuff |
|||||||||
| Browse our Product Categories Below |
OR |
OR |
OR |
Use our Picture Links Below |
OR |
Browse our Print Catalog |
 |
||
|
|||||||||
 |
WSI Tip - Although Euro hinge makers suggest a 35mm flat bottom boring bit to drill cup holes, a 1-3/8" dia. bit will work just as well - the size difference is just 0.02".
WSI Tip - If you don't have a bit extender, a long electrician's bit or one of our Extra Long Bradpoint Bits (960-798), it's still possible to accurately drill long holes in thick stock by using your drill press and drilling from both ends. First, drill a hole into the stock as deeply as possible. Second, place a piece of scrap wood with the same diameter hole in it onto your drill press table. Replace the drill bit with a straight rod, align the rod with the hole in the scrap and clamp the scrap into place. Next, remove the rod and reinstall the drill bit. Then, insert a dowel into the hole in the scrap, place the hole drilled into the thick stock over the dowel and finish drilling the long hole from the other end.
Q - Do you have a 1-1/16" Forstner bit in a 4" overall length or longer?
WSI - We do not carry Forstner bits with longer-than-standard length shanks. However, our Bit Extender (71-514) should meet your requirements. This unit will work with any 3/8" shank bit and will allow you to drill to a depth of around 6" with a Forstner bit.
DUST COLLECTION
WSI Tip - To prevent electrical shock or even a dust explosion, make certain that your dust collection system is properly grounded. If you have any doubts or questions, make sure to contact a licensed electrician.
Q - How do I know what sizes (3", 4", etc.) of hoses, blast gates, connectors, etc., to use when I add power tools to my shop dust collection system?
WSI - Dust collection exhaust diameter recommendations can vary by manufacturer, so it's important that you consult your owner's manual for specific requirements. However, in general, the following will work:
Q - How large of a work space will the DELTA AP-100 Ambient Air Cleaner with Worklight (AP-100) clean?
WSI - Ambient air cleaners are rated in volume of air moved - cfm or cubic feet per minute - over time rather than space. If your shop is 20' x 20' x 8' you would have 3,200 cubic feet of space to clean. Since the AP-100 is a 400 cfm air cleaner, it would clean the 3,200 cubic feet of space in 8 minutes (3200/400=8 minutes). 60 minutes divided by 8 minutes equals 7.5 changes times per hour. Using these formulas, you can "plug in" your shop dimensions and get the rate the space is cleaned in minutes and per hour.
FINISHING
Abrasives:
WSI Tip - Not sure what a manufacturer means when a flap disc, grinding wheel or finishing wheel is described as Type 27 or Type 29? Type 27 has a flat face and is used for working on flat surfaces; Type 29 has a slanted face, which allows it to be used at a more natural working angle.
WSI Tip - The a&h ABRASIVES™ sanding belts Woodworker's Supply® stocks are bi-directional. By turning them around and using them in both directions, you can extend their lives by up to 20%.
Adhesives:
WSI Tip - When working with biscuits, apply glue to the joints first and the biscuits last. Wet biscuits that are allowed to stand will expand and become difficult to insert.
Q - I am building a Cedar strip canoe but can't find the glue they mention in the plans - urea-formaldehyde in a tan powder form. The 1/4" wide strips are glued together on a form and then completely fiber glassed, inside and out. I would like it to be waterproof and have looked at Gorilla Glue® and Titebond® II and III, but the bottles say the glues should not be submerged in water. Do you have any suggestions????
Q - I am making skis so I need a glue that is flexible but will keep together very well. We are gluing wood to wood (Maple). The skis will be covered with another material and will not be getting wet. What do you recommend?
WSI - Boat builders and wooden ski makers we talked to speak highly of SYSTEMTHREE® Two-Part Epoxy Adhesives (119-423), which you can easily modify to fit almost any application, including underwater use. When properly mixed and applied, the epoxy is ready "as is" for coating or fiber glassing.
Colorants:
Q - Is there any way to add color to marine-grade epoxy? I am interested in black.
WSI - Most epoxy can be colored black or just about any color by adding Sheffield Tints-All® (928-119). Keep your mixture lean since these colorants are very concentrated. We suggest making a test sample by mixing about 2-5 drops of colorant per ounce to achieve a satisfactory color. Jot down the maximum amount used per ounce to arrive at a ratio for larger quantities. Too much color can affect drying, so any time you change a color ratio, always check a test ounce for any drying problems.
Q - I'm building red birch kitchen cabinets and have a need for some kind of filler (of the plastic wood variety). A cabinet maker friend says to use FAMOWOOD® water-based filler (893-044) and mix the color to match the specific piece of wood (red birch has an array of reds). I see you have the filler, but...where do I get the colors to custom-mix it?
WSI - We would recommend J.E. Moser's® Fresco or Tints-All© (847-998) colors with this and other water based fillers.
Dyes:
Q - I just bought a house and the kitchen cabinets are 7 layered plywood 1970 style, in good condition, but, dark. I would like to redo them with aniline dye but I have never done this before so I am a little scared. The colors I would like to use are orange golden yellow, early American cherry and dark golden oak, which looks kind of green in the photo. Do you think they will cover the dark wood or will it turn out muddy? I would appreciate any help or advice you can give. The colors I would like to achieve are paprika, saffron and sage. Thank you, Pat.
WSI - As a general rule, when changing the color of any dark woodwork to a lighter shade, the old stain and finish must be removed unless you are painting. The dyes would probably not have much effect on the dark color since it probably also has a finish over it. Once the old stain and finish are removed and lightly sanded, you should be able to start on a "blank canvas" to create your new colors. It is more than a bit of work, but we have had to do this many times and the results are well worth the effort.
Q - I am refinishing a guitar. Right now it is a natural color with a clear coat on it. Would it be possible to apply dye over the clear coat?
WSI - Dye must penetrate the wood or be added to an additional coating for it to be effective - applying it over an existing finish will not really work. The original finish will repel the color. However, you could add dye to a lacquer or other finish and recoat the guitar with very good results.
Q - I purchased a 4 oz container of J.E. Moser's® oil-soluble 'yellow' L2410 (847-333) powdered wood dye...directions suggest using benzol, toluol, turpentine, naphtha or lacquer thinner as well as tung oil and Danish oil. I'd like to avoid the tung and Danish oils but need to know in which of the other solvents the stain dissolves the fastest and most completely. The clear coat finish on top will be Zinsser amber shellac.
WSI - We would suggest turpentine, mineral spirits, naphtha or lacquer thinner as the solvent. The amber shellac should be a fine topcoat for this dye.
Q - I'm a collector of old rifles. Some are so badly mangled that the only option is to completely rebuild the stock. I have been told that "new" dyes are better than old "stains" since they blotch less and seem to apply more evenly. Any truth to this? If so, what dye products would you recommend?
WSI - Water-soluble aniline dyes do blotch less than many stains but can still blotch some. Blotching can be controlled using a light wash coat of SealCoat™ (119-456) prior to brushing on the dye. You can also try spraying the dye on over the sealer or directly onto the wood in light coats and not wiping. When trying these methods, you should spray the next coat of finish to prevent streaking. Bartley Gel Stain (871-902) is a good conventional method of wipe-on staining and a good choice for wood that blotches badly with dyes. If you do get blotching, just apply a coat of Bartley Gel Varnish prior to staining and this will most likely seal the wood enough to prevent most of the problem. As always, first test coat a small piece of similar wood.
Q - Is it okay to use aniline dyes on floors? Is there a particular kind of wood that is preferable? I am putting in a new kitchen with a wood floor. Would old pine work or would it be better to have a newer, cleaner wood?
WSI - Water-soluble aniline dyes will work fine to color your floor and should color older pine very nicely - just make sure all the old finish is removed prior to dying. To make sure you'll like the color, we always recommend making a test panel using the same wood.
Fillers:
Q - I have an oak floor that has shrunk over time, leaving up to 1/8"+ joints in some locations. I'm preparing to refill, sand and finish and would like to know of your best product for this case. I need a super strong filler, I believe, that has excellent adhesive qualities.
WSI - We generally would use an epoxy filler such as our stainable J.E. Moser's® Epoxy Paste Wood Filler (903-965) for filling such voids. Epoxy bonds well and is not likely to break up from the wear floors get. For edges and corners, pound small brads into the wood to use as anchors for the epoxy.
Q - I am trying to deal with cracks in teak used on a boat and am looking for a filler that can be used. The wood is approx. 3/8" thick by 5" wide. After hurricane Frances and Jeanne, I find there are cracks up to 1/8" wide max. in the teak on the sides and across the back of the boat. Do you have something that I can use to fill these cracks?
WSI - So long as the cracks are above waterline and non-structural, you can either use our J.E. Moser's® Epoxy Paste Wood Filler (903-972) alone or, if you prefer, make a good filler by yourself. Begin by mixing SYSTEMTHREE® Epoxy Resin (119-423), Medium #2 Hardener (119-435) and then adding Wood Flour (119-483) until the mixture becomes the consistency of peanut butter. You should be able to match color by adding a little Fresco colorant to either of these epoxies - please ask for a free copy of the 47-page "The Epoxy Book" with your order for plenty of information on boat building and repairs. NOTE: For below waterline or structural cracks, we strongly recommend the services of a boat repair specialist.
Q - I'm having a terrible time locating grain filler for my project. I am working on refinishing an oak desk natural (NO stain), using oil-based ZAR satin varnish. I had originally (some 12+ years ago) laid down a neutral-colored grain filler which in combination with the varnish enriched the natural oak color rather orange tint. I'm sure you've seen it before (even if Home Depot hasn't). Now I'm looking to reproduce that effect, and since I sanded through portions of that filler (rather inadvertently) in removing the old varnish, I now need to match it back up with the right filler. But all the products I'm finding locally are either not indicated as GRAIN filler OR contain some stain. I'm sure it's not an exact science, but these products are far off the mark. What about your NATURAL POR-O-PAC (cat. # 843-826)? Any pointers?
WSI - Pore-O-Pac™ (843-826) is an excellent grain filler. It can be colored using our Master Color Pigment or most UTC colors to match the existing grain color you are trying to duplicate.
Q - I am making a fireplace mantel out of a 6" thick piece of Black Walnut that has significant (and wide) cracks in the end grain. I am looking for how to best fill the voids with something that won't shrink or crack and can somehow be colored dark brown or black...I remember a product my dad used when I was young that was black and had to be melted with a flame and dripped into voids but nobody I have talked to seems to know what it was.
WSI - It sounds like your father was using a traditional wax or shellac burn-in stick - we carry similar products in a variety of colors that should do a fine job of filling those voids in your Black Walnut mantel-to-be, including J.E. Moser's® Fill Sticks® (851-344), H. Behlen® Master™ Furniture Burn-In Sticks (926-341) and the H. Behlen® Master™ Burn-In Kit (850-987).
Finishes, Epoxy:
Q - At a crafts show I saw some hand-turned, exotic wood pieces that had a deep, clear - almost glass-like - finish. What do I need to get this type of finish on other types of wood pieces...it was not polyurethane.
WSI - To match the finish you describe, we suggest Crystal Sheen Polymer Finish Pour-On Epoxy (293-001). The two-part liquid mix is easy to apply and cures with the look of liquid glass. The glossy finish enriches color, enhances wood grains and lasts for years - no polishing required.
Finishes, Oil:
Q - I applied one coat of Hope's 100% tung oil on an unfinished pine bookcase. I don't like the looks of it and want to put a light stain on it. Is Bartley's Gel Stain compatible with this product? And, can I put this product over the tung oil? Susan.
WSI - Bartley Gel Stain should work just fine. But first, lightly scuff the bookcase surface using a Finishing Sponge (960-016). When you are finished, apply the Bartley's (875-212).
Q - We are building a house and I am investigating finishes for kitchen cabinetry. We will be using Lyptus wood from Weyerhauser® and want a furniture-finish look. I was wondering how the Watco Danish oil and polyurethane finish would serve in that role. We like in Oklahoma.
WSI - Try using WATCO® Danish Oil Finish (921-663) or J.E. Moser's® Danish Oil (859-973) as the first coat for rich color, followed by two coats of J.E. Moser's® SIMPLE SUCCESS™ (902-922) for durability.
Q - Can your orange oil be used to clean butcher block or do you have a cleaning agent besides this oil?.
WSI - Butcher block that is cut on and used to prepare food, should be regularly cleaned with soap and water. Once dry, we recommend reconditioning the wood using our J.E Moser's® Butcher Block Oil (107-288). While it can be used on almost any wood to clean and freshen the finish, J.E Moser's® Orange Oil (107-285) is not formulated for use on food-related items.
Q - Perhaps you can help my secretary. She just purchased a butcher block table for her kitchen and was told to oil it. I suggested one of the Danish oil finishes but was concerned that it might pose a health hazard. I don't think it would be a problem after it dries but I thought I should ask.
WSI - Most Danish oils should be okay after they have completely cured, however, they have a lingering odor that could be offensive around food. If the table is used to cut on and prepare food, we would suggest our J.E Moser's® Butcher Block Oil (107-285). It can be applied regularly, as necessary, plus dry time and toxicity are not problems.
Q - How can I keep your pure tung oil from congealing in the container? Is there any way I can recover tung oil that has congealed in the container?
WSI - These oil finishes react with air inside the can, so reducing the amount of air reduces gelling. There is a good aerosol product - BLOX2YGEN™ (914-785) - that, when added to the can, prevents congealing. You can also place clean river rocks in the can to take up the space of the used finish. It is best to keep the lid tightly sealed and use the product as quickly as possible once opened. These finishes can be thinned with mineral spirits but you cannot do anything to save the finish when it gets too thick to use.
Q - Please advise best products for finishing oily woods such as Cocobolo and Bocote. I need a hard protective finish since they will be used outdoors.
WSI - WATCO® Teak Oil Finish (117-086) has a special penetrating solvent for oily woods and is ideal for exotic hardwoods. Easily applied with a brush or rag, it produces even coverage for interior and exterior applications, adds a warm, golden glow on all wood types and provides mildew and water resistance.
Q - I am looking for a good finish to put onto the outside of a Cedar chest to make the wood richer and add a durable finish.
WSI - We're pretty certain you'll be pleased with the results if you use Bulls Eye® SealCoat® (119-456) as the first coat - to make the color rich - and then apply two additional coats of J.E. Moser's® SIMPLE SUCCESS™ (902-922) for durability.
Finishes, Other:
Q - I am looking for a specific product but not sure if there is anything made that would achieve the result we are looking for. My boss is an artist who paints mirrors. The process that she has now is painting with latex paint on HDF. After finishing the painting process, she uses two coats of Fuhn lacquer. The second coat is coming out too glossy for her. We have added a lacquer flattening agent with no success. We are looking to get a flat finish. We have tried using a Scotchbrite pad but it is too harsh. She is looking to achieve a protective but matte aged finish. We cannot use wax to dull it as we occasionally have to do touchups. Is there a product that you might be able to recommend that would help us achieve this finish? Please let me know your thoughts.
WSI - Sounds like an interesting process! We would suggest lightly scuffing the second coat (using 320 grit sandpaper), if possible, and then adding a coat or two of H. BEHLEN® Master™ Jet Spry Dead Flat Aerosol Lacquer (934-154). If you are concerned about scratches, to try applying the lacquer without scuffing.
Q - Hope you can help - I am doing a project that consists of a hollowed out oak tree - the bark is tight - but I am concerned that if I don't put the proper finish on, it will dry and come loose in time. What would be the best treatment for it? Thanks, Ray.
WSI - We have a product called Pentacryl (944-769) that sounds like what you are looking for. It is used by many carvers and turners to help prevent harmful drying.
Q - I have a log home (that I built) with 600 sq. ft. of hardwood flooring. It's 12 years old now and has worn spots around traffic areas. It was sanded and clear-finished in the beginning. Can I spot finish now instead of doing the whole floor and what is best?
WSI - Sorry, but we would recommend refinishing the entire floor. Only finishing the worn areas would likely end up looking uneven. We have a very nice water-based finish - WOOD SHIELD™ (914-652) that will leave a tough, protective coating.
Q - I have a horse drawn cart that is unfinished wood and would like to put a clear varnish type product on it to seal the wood. The cart is used in the dirt, typically washed with water and frequently out in the sun. If available, I would like a product that would be less likely to turn gray like the varnishes or lacquers used on the carts I already have. What would you recommend?
WSI - Our suggestion would be WATERLOX Marine Finish (849-160), a finish that is flexible and will hold up to most exterior applications without cracking. Just lightly sand and re-coat whenever the finish starts to show wear or if the sheen becomes dull.
Q - I have applied an oil-based stain to Oak cabinets. Can I use J.E. Moser's® Polymerized Tung Oil Varnish (860-057) over stain?
WSI - Absolutely. This varnish is compatible with all types of stain that have properly dried. Please make sure the surface is clean of any waxes, lubricating oils, grease or silicon polish. These type of contaminants could cause you problems with your finish.
Refinishing:
Q - I would like to lacquer over cleaned brass in order to protect it from tarnishing. Is there a spray clear gloss lacquer appropriate for this use?
WSI - We're glad to report we have just what you're looking for. Staybrite™ (849-489) is an aerosol product that has been specifically formulated for projects like yours.
Q - I'm in the middle of refinishing the stock on a fine shotgun for a friend. My personal preference is usually linseed oil but the guy that owns this wants a high-gloss finish. Can you tell me which of your products would be best for this application, taking into account the gun will see a lot of outdoor use? And, what do you suggest to strip this *&%>@/< polyurethane with?
WSI - WATERLOX Marine Finish (294-001) is an an oil-based product that is easy to apply with a brush or rag, dries to a high gloss and should work very nicely on your gunstock. To remove existing finish, we suggest a product like Citristrip® Stripping Gel (876-740) followed by sanding. Stain the wood or leave it natural before applying 3-4 coats of WATERLOX.
Stains:
Q - I need info on what type of stain I should use to get a true black on Ash. It has to be kinda semi trans - Ebony is not black enough - it almost needs to look like a black lacquer finish.
WSI - Jet Black Solar-Lux™ (847-347) is probably the answer. You might then need to add J.E. Moser's® GRAIN-FIL™ (922-828) to color in the pores that will not take the dye (first tint the grain filler with Sheffield TINTS-ALL® Lamp Black). Solar-Lux™ can also be added to lacquer as a toner to get an even darker black finish.
Techniques:
Q - I am refinishing a vintage electric acoustic archtop guitar. It will be painted black and not a natural finish. I am wanting to do some trimming in imitation gold leaf. Can you please advise and give me some pointers as to which type of leaf I need and what type of glue or size I will need, etc. Possibly, what I may need as far as the paint goes to accommodate the leaf. George P.
WSI - This definitely sounds like a great project for imitation gold leaf. Leaf is easy to apply over most paints and surface coatings as long as they are in fairly good shape, but we always test an inconspicuous area for compatibility. First apply the size (adhesive), allow to set up or become tacky and lightly lay your leaf over the area avoiding wrinkles, if possible. Make sure your sheets have a slight overlap to eliminate seams. Lightly burnish using a soft cotton cloth until the excess is removed. Then, apply a coat of clear acrylic or lacquer to prevent tarnish and give the leaf protection from wear. We offer two Gilding Kits (929-339), which include everything you will most likely need to complete your project, including a book of imitation gold leaf. It's always a good idea to read all the directions on the product label and finish a practice piece such as a mirror frame to get you accustomed to the procedure.
WSI Customer Tip - I like to work with walnut that contains touches of sap wood and blue and silver streaks. In discussing sap wood with a local wood expert, I told him I use your Aniline Dyes and they work well. I am passing on his tip of how to turn sap wood into pigmented dark walnut. Apply white vinegar or lemon juice onto the surface and it will darken...for removing excess moisture from small pieces of wood, put the piece into a microwave oven set at 15% power for 5 minutes, let cool and run it through again at 15% - moisture will be reduced considerably.
Q - I am looking for a simple method on how to remove a stain from a marble slab that is the top of a table. It's pure marble, not synthetic. I know you are into wood but thought there might be a connection that you are aware of from all your experience.
WSI - Stains can come from many sources such as tea, coffee, oil, rust and acid and need to be cleaned using specific methods. If you cannot identify the source, you might want to start with the easiest method, which is to apply corn starch over the stain and allow it to absorb any oils, then scrub with detergent and hot water. If this helps, repeat until the stain is gone. You might also try scrubbing with acetone. Coffee stains can usually be bleached out with hydrogen peroxide applied with a cotton cloth. Rust requires a rust remover solution. If the surface is scored by acid you might need to rebuff. Please observe all safety measures and test any procedure on an inconspicuous area, first. Good luck!
Q - How can I tell what the shelf life is on finishes? What will happen if I use one that is outdated? I have several cans of polyurethane, shellacs, varathane, and stains that are six months to over a year old and I don't know if they are still good.
WSI - Most lacquers, polyurethanes and stains are useful for a couple of years if stored in a cool, dry environment. Average pre-mixed shellacs have a much shorter shelf life. The best way to test a finish is to apply it to a piece of scrap wood and check it for drying. If it stays soft or tacky longer than normal, it is best to not use it.
Q - My question is in regard to wood finishing "fly specking" - do you have product to achieve the result and some instruction as to the approach? And, do you sell a glazing brush?
WSI - The fly specking you are describing is easy to do using an old toothbrush and a concentrated stain - just dip the brush into the stain and flick tiny drops of color onto your project. Once dry, cover with any finish. You can mix your own stain using H. Behlen® Master™ PreStain Clear Stain Base (955-616) and Black TINTS-ALL© Universal Tinting Color (928-119). Although we do not carry a specialty glazing brush, many finishers select our Badger brushes (850-315) because of their very fine bristles.
Q - I applied H. Behlen® Rockhard™ Tabletop Varnish onto a Walnut wet bar and would like to reduce the gloss to a semi-gloss. What do you suggest?
WSI - Lightly buff using H. Behlen® Liquid Steel Wool Lube (849-811) and LIBERON™ Oil-Free #0000 Steel Wool (812-324). This will give you a nice satin sheen.
Q - I am interested in using a padded lacquer technique to finish guitars. I see you stock Behlen's Qualasole, which is listed as a padding lacquer, but also Behlen's Stringed Instrument Lacquer. Is it possible to apply the Stringed Instrument Lacquer with a padding technique? Although Qualasole is, I gather, a furniture lacquer, can it be used for stringed instruments (for instance, when thinned to a certain proportion)?
WSI - According to the manufacturer, there are no additives available for Qualasole lacquer which will make it usable as a padding finish. It will work fine, however, when sprayed on in moderate-build applications. Many instrument makers use H. Behlen® Violin Varnish (849-307) as a padding finish. It has additives that make it more flexible than lacquer to help prevent cracking. You might experiment by adding a drop or two of OZ® Cream Polish (850-119) to your pad once it is saturated with finish to help lubricate it during the application process.
Q - Could you please tell me if H. Behlen® Master-Gel® Wood Finish (849-300) can be applied over gel stain on a fiberglass door?
WSI - The gel finish should work fine as a finish coating for most stained surfaces. As always, please test any finish on a sample area before using on your finished project to make sure you are happy with the results.
Q - Can a second coat of water-based J.E. Moser's® MarineShield™ (915-380) be applied over the first coat after one hour WITHOUT SANDING? I am planning on using it on my Redwood window sills and would like to finish in one day, but I don't want to have to do it again for a long time.
WSI - For best long-term results, the first two coats should be sanded between coats, but any additional coats can be applied without sanding. Just make sure the finish is dry before recoating. While dry times vary according to temperature and humidity, it is likely you can apply up to 6 coats in one day - the recommended number for outdoor applications, indoors you can get by with only 2 coats.
Q - Previously, I used a product called Duffy's Duf-Oyl, an oil-based finish made with the oil of a Brazilian hardwood nut - much like tung oil. It was so easy to apply because you could apply it with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and it produced an exquisite hand-rubbed finish. I can no longer find it. Do you sell anything like it?
WSI - We're not familiar with Duf-Oyl, but it sounds like the same finishing method we use with WATCO® or J.E. Moser's® Danish Oil (859-973) on hardwoods such as Cherry, Maple, Oak or Walnut. Rubbing in the oil with 400 grit sandpaper produces the smoothest, most natural-looking, hand-rubbed finish you could ask for. Follow up, when dry, with a coat or two of J.E. Moser's® Satin Wax (107-291) for an extra level of luster.
Q - I am going to make some cabinets for my garage and would like to edge band some of the face frames. However, I want to paint them and I did not see anything on your site which indicates how well your wood edge banding materials accept paint.
WSI - Please paint away! Our Wood Edge banding (800-625) should not present any problems for you when painting. However, it is always a good idea to first prime the surface for best adhesion.
Q - I am looking for a wipe-on, satin polyurethane finish, preferably water-based, to use on a decorative painted wood piece such as a chest. The paint would be acrylic such as Ceramcoat or Folk Art. Would BARTLEY Satin Gel Varnish (875-212) or H. Behlen® Master-Gel® Clear Finish (849-300) be appropriate?
WSI - While they are excellent products, we would not recommend using either over your paint due to damage that could be caused by solvents they contain. Instead, we suggest a water-based finish like J.E. Moser's® SIMPLE SUCCESS™ (902-922) that is very gentle on substrates - as always, first test on an inconspicuous area.
Q - I have had problems with Paduke and Purple Heart turning brown instead of staying the bright orange or purple it was when I worked them into the shapes I wanted. Is there any coating that actually protects the wood from changing color in the sun?
WSI - There are some very good finishes with UV blockers on the market, today. Most will help a good deal, however, we do not know of any that will eliminate the problems associated with extreme UV light from the sun. If you know of a finish that works, please let us know.
Q - I am painting an exterior wood project and want to finish it with a relatively clear product. Shellac gives me the amber color I want, but then I wonder if a polyurethane finish, colored amber might be better. 1. Is shellac an excellent exterior finish? 2. Are there products I can add to poly to color it like amber shellac? 3. Is poly better than shellac as an exterior finish? 4. Are there better products for exterior application?
WSI - Shellac is not very water resistant, making it a very poor choice outdoors. We would suggest our J.E Moser's® MARINESHIELD™ (915-380) for light- to medium-duty exterior projects such as doors and trim where you want an amber look. This finish dries water clear, at first, then cures to a beautiful amber in 7-10 days. It requires approximately 6 coats for maximum moisture resistance.
Q - I am trying to refinish an old drop leaf table with bad Mahogany veneer and have taken the veneer off to the underlayment. Should I use PSA veneer or is plain veneer better? What tools should I buy to finish the job?
WSI - We prefer 10-mil. Backed Wood Veneer (912-489) and fastening it with contact adhesive or Flexible Sheet Veneer (FSV) Adhesive (116-348). Apply Titebond® Neoprene-Based Contact Cement (927-517) or FSV with a Foam Glue Roller (910-046) and Frame (948-312) and allow it to become tacky - usually about 1/2 hour. It is a good idea to lay down dowels across the surface every 6 inches or so to prevent the veneer from sticking, unevenly. Pull the dowels out as you press the veneer into place by hand, making sure not to cause wrinkles or air pockets. Once in place, use a J-Roller (893-723) to firmly press the veneer into place. Trim the edges using a Ceramic Edge Trimmer (801-511) and lightly sand the edges with fine sandpaper to prevent splintering. Next, lightly sand entire surface using 150-grit sandpaper on a flat sanding pad. Vacuum all dust from surface, apply a coat of stain and 3-4 coats of J.E. Moser's® SIMPLE SUCCESS II™ Oil-Based Polyurethane (910-025).
Waxes:
Q - I have applied several coats of dark brown BRIWAX® to a badly worn Mahogany table top with uneven results. Each additional application tends to improve the finish, but I wonder how many more it will take to make the shine uniform. Also, the finish tends to streak and fingerprints show up rather easily. I wonder if changing to a clear paste wax might help. Also, I might change to a harder-finish wax such as your J.E. Moser's Premium Wax that does not contain beeswax. Is there any hope or am I stuck with a mediocre job? I live in apartment, so I have avoided using chemical strippers and tung-oil finish because of the strong vapors.
WSI - BRIWAX® (115-265) is an excellent product - we don't think changing wax is the answer. The problem you are describing is usually caused by too much wax on the surface. Waxes work best when applied in very thin coats. You can usually correct the problem of too much wax by rubbing the surface out with fine #0000 steel wool. Simply unroll the pad until you have a sheet of wool. Rub down the surface until there is a very even luster and no drag when the wool is pulled across the surface. You can then burnish with a cotton cloth for more luster.
Q - Do I understand correctly that one can use Skidmore's Liquid Beeswax Woodfinish (854-532) to finish a piece of unfinished furniture? I am looking for a non-toxic, non-outgassing finish to apply to an unfinished pine armoire to give it some protection from my toddler's oily fingers. Please advise!
WSI - Yes, you can get a nice looking, safe finish using beeswax. A wax finish will occasionally require an additional coat to look its best. With unfinished wood, start by applying a coat of Skidmore's Liquid Beeswax Sealer (880-890) and then a coat or two of the finish. Complete directions for easy application are on the container.
HAND TOOLS
WSI Tip - To prevent gouging when working with a hand plane make sure you plane "uphill." By that we mean, make sure that the wood grain in the direction you are working angles upward, not downward.
Q - I am thinking of purchasing Chisel Set (890-296). What is meant by "Hone before use"?
WSI - The terminology refers to chisels that have been ground to the proper bevel, but still require final honing to bring the edge to functional sharpness.
Q - I was wondering how you transfer the measured angle from a T-bevel to the actual cutting of the angle on the piece of wood you're working on. Example - the angle of a corner that's not 45° or similar degrees.
WSI - The edge of the T-bevel handle is placed along the edge of the board and the blade is allowed to lie flat on the board's surface. The angle can then be marked with a pencil, scribe or marking knife. The T-bevel can then be used to set the cut angle on a hand or power miter box by aligning the blade of the saw with the sliding arm while holding the handle against or in-line with the saw fence.
HARDWARE
Q - Do you carry what I call sliding hinges...where one can open cabinet doors and then slide them into the cabinet? If they're not called sliding hinges, what are they? I need them for 1,500 cabinets in an East San Diego housing project.
WSI - We believe the mechanism you are referring to is most commonly referred to as pocket door hardware. The mechanism allows cabinet doors to swing open and then slide back into the cabinet. We have information about standard cabinet doors (802-051), large or heavy doors (116-870) or heavy duty rack-and-pinion systems (937-782).
Q - Anvil cases use a hinge that separates when you open the case so you can take off the lid. This allows the user to leave things like a mixing board in the case while being used. The lower part of the hinge is usually just a rod or pin while the top part is curved and secures itself around the pin when you put the lid back on and close the case. I don't know what the hinges are called, so I can't search for them by name.
WSI - The hinges you are talking about are commonly called "lift-off hinges". At this time, we carry a heavy brass version from BRUSSO® (129-965), sold as pairs of left- or right-hand hinges.
Q - The EB-TY™ Hidden Deck Fastening System (103-319) looks really cool. But, after the deck has been in for a number of years, suppose one of the boards in the middle of the deck needs replacing. How do you get the old board out and the new one in?
WSI - The beauty of the EB-TY system is that it is easy to maintain. The fasteners fit into slots in the deck boards and a single screw is driven into the deck frame between the deck boards. To replace a board, simply remove the screws from each side of the deck board and it will be free to be lifted and replaced.
Q - I need a drawer hinge that will allow me to convert an existing drawer into a drop down front that can accommodate the mouse and keyboard for my PC. The front would lie flush with the floor of the drawer. I have seen these hinges on new office furniture, but am unable to locate them for personal use.
WSI - You could try replacing the existing drawer slides with 3/4 extension, drop-front slides - 14" Drop-Front Slide (937-009) or 16" Slide (937-016). The 14" has about 10-1/2" of travel while the 16" has about 12". A second option would be to use a combination of a Flap Hinge (927-993) or (943-643) and a Latching Mechanism (800-501) to secure the drawer front in the vertical position, when closed. The flap hinge will give a flush mount between the flap and the drawer bottom.
Q - I am interested in your Magnifier-Lamp (73-254) for a desk lamp, but I'm curious as to how it rotates. I have looked at other models that clamp onto a table but they won't rotate sufficiently to use for desk work.
WSI - The magnifier lamp rotates on a post in a sleeve on the clamp base. It can be rotated a full 360° - the only restriction being the position of the power cord.
Q - I have questions about your Heavy Duty Cabinet Levelers (122-441) - I see there is a toe kick clip. Is this required to be used? Does it add strength? Does not using it affect the weight limit?
WSI - Use of the toe kick clip is completely at the discretion of the user. The clip assembly has no effect on the mounting, strength or durability of the leveling legs.
Q - Because I could not obtain non-mortise hinges in antique brass, I ordered bright brass hinges along with Brass Ager (941-092) solution, which worked great for 15 hinges. Later, I got 3 more hinges but these will not "age"...instead, they remain bright brass with "rust" streaks on portions of the hinges.
WSI - A couple of techniques might solve this "aging" problem. Often stamped hinges, like the non-mortise hinges, have a light oil coating remaining from machining. Light buffing with very fine steel wool will open the brass surface to the Brass Ager (be sure to use fresh solution, since it loses strength if previously used). Wiping the surface with a strong solvent (lacquer thinner, acetone, etc.) is also effective if hinges have been coated or lacquered. Another technique is a hot, white vinegar bath to remove residual oils or surface coatings and create the aging effect. This will not be instantaneous - overnight soaking is frequently required. After the vinegar bath, wash the hinges in clear water, dry thoroughly and apply light oil to the pins to ensure proper movement.
Q - I do not know how to take the measurements on the wheel and the stem so I make sure I get the right caster. Can you tell me how to measure the wheel size and the stem size for an office chair?
WSI - All Woodworker's Supply® stem mount casters have 5/16" dia. stems that are 1-1/2" long. Wheel diameter is actual wheel size, excluding any hood or guard.
Q - I bought the Stopmatic Euro-Flap Furniture Stay (943-131) and am replacing a similar stay on an older piece of furniture. I need to reverse the unit to use it on both sides of my existing unit. HOW do I change, HOW do I reverse the direction of the stay?
WSI - The Euro-Flap stay is reversed by removing the top end (with the magnetic catch), by twisting and pulling on the end cap. The slide can then be removed and the direction reversed. Simply slide the top end cap back on the assembly and the stay is ready for mounting on the opposite end of the flap.
Q - 18" Speedy Shelf Support (896-755) Questions - How may support bracket are contained on each 18 inch strip? What is the distance between the support brackets? What are the dimensions of the support bracket? Do the brackets remain extended or can they be retracted when not used? Does the 400 lbs. load capacity pertain to each strip or to each bracket on the strip?
WSI - There are 9 tabs per strip - 2" between tabs. The tabs are 10mm wide (just over 3/8"), sit in the open position and cannot be retracted. The 400 lbs. load limit pertains to an entire strip - not an individual shelf.
LAYOUT/MEASURING
WSI Tip - Although a ruler is the tool for marking out a workpiece, a "story pole" is the better choice when you have to make several identical cuts. Select a piece of wood similar to the original and put all of the appropriate measuring marks onto it. Then, instead of remeasuring, place your "story pole" onto the next workpiece and transfer the marks - this will speed up your work and greatly reduce the possibility of error.
Q - I am looking for a tool that will give me an accurate measurement of the "angle" of our vaulted ceiling in our home. Do you have a tool for this purpose? I used to have a combination square with a circular wheel that would show the degree of the angle that the straight edge of the square was placed upon. I would like to replace this tool.
WSI - We have two products that can give you the angle of your ceiling and replace the combination square you have been using - Mite-R-Gauge (815-944) and TRUE ANGLE® (897-898).
MACHINE ACCESSORIES
Q - I moved into my new home several months ago but left my table saw in storage. When I went to pick it up, the table was covered with rust. Any way to get rid of the rust without too much "elbow grease"?
WSI - We've got just the product to help save your elbows. TopSaver™ (132-152) quickly removes rust and corrosion plus it prevents rust from returning 5 times longer than other products. Regular use also reduces friction and binding, repels dust and moisture and won't stain wood.
Q - I purchased a Woodtek® Tenoning Jig (116-738) but can't understand the guide bar part of this unit. It says it will fit into 3/4" miter grooves but it has a set of washers under it that makes it 7/8" wide. Can you help me understand this jig better, please?
WSI - Glad to oblige! The "washers" you refer to are retainers that hold the miter bar in place in machines that have "T"-type miter slots, such as the DELTA® UNISAW®. If you have a different type of miter slot and can't use the retainers, just remove them. They are each held in place with one very small screw. The Tenoning Jig works equally well - with or without retainers.
Q - I recently purchased a Woodtek® 10" Contractor's Tablesaw (109-349) and am interested in installing a "Merlin Splitter", manufactured by Excalibur Tool Company. Would you be able to recommend a specific model?
WSI - Congratulations on your recent purchase! According to our Woodtek® Technical Division, in Casper, Wyoming, Merlin Splitter MTK-150 (118-967) is the correct product for your saw. Once the mounting hardware is installed, the splitter can be installed or removed - without tools - in seconds.
Q - I need a new carbide-tipped, circular sawblade. What's with the FT, ATB, TC&F, etc.?
WSI - Those letters are how a manufacturer tells you the sawblade's tooth design: "FT" flat top grind is generally used for cutting with the grain; "ATB" alternate top bevel grind blades have teeth intended for cut offs, trimming and cutting across the grain; the "TC&F" triple chip and flat grind is suggested for cutting brittle or hard materials; while "ATB&R" alternate top bevel and raker is suitable for cutting with or across the grain.
Q - I'm interested in purchasing a Freud Professional Router Fence, Router Table Top and Router Table Insert (117-371), but have a couple of questions. I've read Internet comments about the fence being difficult to mount without special adapters. I'm assuming that because the fence and the table are from the same manufacturer this won't be a problem. Can you confirm? Second, can you tell me what the insert is made of and if it is pre-drilled for a Porter-Cable 890 router?
WSI - There will be no fit problems if you purchase these three items, since they are actually parts of a freud® "system" designed around their FT2000E router. Problems can develop when a person buys this fence as a replacement or upgrade to another brand router table, due to differences in mounting configurations. This is solved with an adapter, but is not an issue you will have to contend with. The phenolic resin mounting plate is pre-drilled for the FT2000E router - all you have to do is re-drill the plate to fit your Porter-Cable 890.
Q - I'm looking for a router sign-making template that will extend up to 48". Do you have anything coming available in the near future?
WSI - The largest template we carry is the MILESCRAFT® Model 3000 (900-321), which is 30" long, but that should not stop you. Repositioning a template to accommodate longer signs is relatively easy. Loosen either the two upper or two lower (not both) lock screws and remove the template from the stock. When adding letters to complete the sign, make sure the first letter in the template is the same as the last letter routed. Position the first letter in the template over the same last letter, ensure proper spacing and then retighten the lock screws to maintain the same line of cut. It's really not as difficult as you might think.
Q - Not all of the parts in the DELTA® Bandsaw Height Adjustment Kit (28-984) will work with older DELTA® 14" bandsaws - the height adjuster in the kit is round, while my saw's hex. I think that everything else will work.
WSI - According to DELTA®, there's a quick and easy fix. The round height adjustment guide is designed to fit all newer bandsaws, straight from the box. Fitting the unit to older hex guide bandsaws only requires a few strokes with a round or half-round file on the middle of the hex holder's flats. Since only a few thousandths-of-an-inch need to be removed, try hitting each surface with 2 or 3 strokes and then check for fit - repeat, if necessary.
Q - My table saw slot is 1/4" deep and 5/8" wide. Will the Universal Table Saw Jig (30-254) work on my table saw?
WSI - The Universal Tablesaw Jig adjusts for 1/2" to 7/8" x 1/4" slots - you should find this to be a very handy tool to have in your shop.
MACHINERY
Q - I am interested in setting up a woodworking shop in my home. What should be the first major power tool I buy?
WSI - While radial arm saw devotees will probably disagree, we would recommend a 10" tablesaw. With it, you can do all basic woodworking cuts - bevel and compound angle, rip, miter and cross-cut. You can also take advantage of dado blades and molding cutter heads for specialty work, use abrasive blades to cut thin metal or cut butt, spline, tenon, rabbet, box, tongue-and-groove and many more joints. Our Woodtek® 10" Contractor's Tablesaw (120-038) offers all of these features and more at a very reasonable price.
POWER TOOLS
WSI Tip - To prevent splintering when routing plywood veneer across the grain, first scribe each side of where the cut will be using a utility knife.
Q - What's the difference between Porter-Cable® Air Compressor (102-890) with an "oil-free" pump and a Woodtek® Air Compressor (127-529) with an "oil-lubricated" pump?
WSI - Oil-lubricated compressors run quieter than oil-free units, but require more routine maintenance - without which, oil can mix with material being sprayed. However, they generally last longer than the oil-free units, which require pump replacement or rebuilding after a few thousand hours of use.
PROJECT SUPPLIES
Q - How do I go about gaining information on the basic application of gold and silver leafing (for furniture only)?
WSI - Our Gilding Project Kit (929-339) includes everything needed including primer, leaf adhesive, acrylic clear coat, cheesecloth and mixing sticks, natural hair brush, 600 wet/dry sandpaper, cotton gloves, a book of leaf and instructions.
Q - Do you have any idea where I can purchase rolls of composite gold leaf?
WSI - We can special order almost anything in the area of gilding products at very competitive prices and ship, quickly. Composition gold is readily available in 164' rolls in either 1", 2" or 6" widths.
Q - I am looking for a product I can use to replace a broken piece of what I think might be mica on the door of an old cast iron, pot belly stove. I need something that will not burn, will prevent flames from escaping but is somewhat transparent so as to view the fire. Would your Mica Sheets (941-273) work?
WSI - The mica sheets we stock are suitable for crafts and lighting projects but are not suitable for furnace/stove windows. You might try contacting Tarheel Mica (tarheelmica.com) or Asheville Mica Co. (ashevillemica.com) for information on obtaining mica suitable for your needs.
Q - I'm going to make a ceramic tile top dining table for my wife. What should I use as a substrate under the tile to keep the wood from bowing? This will be my second attempt - the first time the Maple butcher block table I used was fine for about 6 months, then the ends bowed downward and cracked the end tiles.
WSI - This is a good question. There is a 1/4" thick backing board (HARDIBACKER®) available in home centers. You can glue and fasten this to plywood as a rigid backer for the tile. We believe this will work best for your project. The store you purchase the backer from should be able to answer additional questions.
Q - Poplar is hardwood; will the Fletcher® FrameMaster™ Point Driver (800-815) shoot points into Poplar picture frames?
WSI - Framemaster™ shoots framer's and glaziers points and will handle most hardwoods, so Poplar should not be a problem.
Q - I bought some Mica Sheets (941-273) from you a few months ago and I'd like to make the lamp shown in your catalog and website. Do you know if plans are available anywhere?
WSI - The lamp was made by current woodworking artisan and former Woodworker's Supply® employee Teri Masaschi - unfortunately, plans for the lamp are not available.
SAFETY
Q - In the past, I have purchased dust masks similar to Disposable Dust Mask (952-991), but my glasses always fog up. In your description, it states glasses won't fog up. Is this a fact? What I am looking for is a mask I can wear in my woodworking shop, throughout the day, that won't fog up my glasses.
WSI - This mask's front valve allows most exhaled air to pass through the front, preventing much of the fogging you describe. It also allows the mask to remain cooler and more comfortable. However, the valve requires a proper seal around the edges and facial hair can adversely affect its performance. If you are still having problems after trying this mask, you might want to consider Parker's® PERFECT (944-559), which you spray onto your glasses. This product not only eliminates most of the fogging, it also helps prevent dust from clinging to your lenses.
Q - My safety goggles are scratched and pitted. Is there a way to repair them or should I just buy another pair?
WSI - While safety goggles generally include anti-scratch coatings, the coating can become less effective with use. Products exist to restore scratched plastic that cost about 50% of the cost of new goggles. If you have several sets of goggles that need upgrading, NOVUS
Q - Considering that long, moving blade aren't bandsaws more dangerous than other power saws? What's the best way to protect yourself if you have one?
WSI - A bandsaw is relatively safe to use, however, as with any power tool, some special precautions are needed. Don't start cutting until the saw reaches full speed and don't force stock into the blade. Stand to the left when working at the front to avoid a snapped blade that generally moves to the right. If the blade breaks, immediately turn off the power and wait until the wheels stop before proceeding. And, as always, wear safety goggles, keep your hands clear when cutting and use push sticks or push blocks for smaller stock.
WOOD TURNING
Q - Do you offer any steady rests for lathes?
WSI - We carry two different steady rests that fit a variety of lathes. Bowl Steady (961-024) lets wood turners deal with wood flexibility, excess spindle bearing play and out-of-balance spinning. Spindle Steady (961-052) applies the same features to spindle turning.
Q - What is the smallest diameter hole that will fit over fully centered ONEWAY #1 Spigot Jaws (106-013)?
WSI - The grip range for the Model 3014 is 1/4" minimum, 1-3/4" maximum for external or compression chucking and 1-1/6" minimum, 2-1/2" maximum for internal or expansion chucking.
| Browse Print Catalog • Browse Products by Category • Catalog Request • Checkout • Closeouts • Email Newsletter • FAQ • Help • Home • Login • Logoff My Account • My Cart • My Custom Catalog (U.S. Patent 7,472,082)• My Projects • New Products • Order History • Printable Order Form • Rapid Order • Technical/Product FAQs • Wish List Woodworker's Platinum Rewards™ Visa |